Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > RCCrawler Brand Specific Tech > Heritage Crawlers > Tamiya TLT Crawlers
Loading

Notices

Thread: FAQ: TLT-1 to TLT-Crawler ***NEWBIES READ!!!***

 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 12-29-2004, 05:58 PM   #1
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,129
Arrow FAQ: TLT-1 to TLT-Crawler ***NEWBIES READ!!!***

This is a TLT FAQ, I will update it periodically, giving part numbers and links when I find them as well as adding pertinent tricks and parts as they become available. Please use this as a basis for understanding the truck and modifying it, but remember, some searching around will have to be done by you. This FAQ does not cover custom chassis design or suspension geometry, this is simply a basic overview to begin you on your way....

TLT..... Wow, this thing has so much potential, so let's get started.

With a stock TLT chassis/gearbox, you can run the 4tec/street sport diff (available at tower here: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG16&P=7)(this mod requires a little fabrication, mainly locking the diff, shimming it to center it, and creating spacers inside the bearings to accept the new yokes). This will keep the stock belt drive, or vertigo performance has just released a locker for the TLT (not in stock yet). When all is said and done, they come out about the same price, and they accept sliders as well. From there you can attach some tmaxx links, 96mm and 108mm (tower links: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSP04&P=ML and http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDDW0&P=ML), you'll need two sets of each. That'll get your wheelbase out in the 11.5" range. You don't have to buy links though. If you're crafty, you can make your own.

For the axles, first ditch the bumpers, they ruin your approach angle, and take away from under axle clearance. Then move the steering links above the steering arms. Next move the upper links to the back of the axle, and the lower links to the top to remove clutter under the axle. You will need to buy some longer screws and do some shaving or some shimming. I didn't have a dremel at the time, so I shimmed. Please note that doing this mod will extend out your wheelbase and you will have to run the 96mm link on the bottom and the 108mm link on top):




Any HPI rear wheels, Traxxas F/R stampede wheels, Kyosho 2.2" wheels will fit, pretty much, if it has the standard 12mm hex in the back. For 2.2" tires, the tallest ones out there are the Proline Masher 2k's, Imex Swamp Dawgs, Imex Pullers, and the traxxas stampede tires. Most run the swamp dawgs because they are uber soft and provide stellar traction. You can run maxx wheels, and while I don't have it confirmed, it has been mentioned that Maxx adapters for the Wild Dagger will fit on the TLT yokes. Please understand that larger tires create larger amounts of stress/strain on driveline components and raise your overall gear ratio.

Now, having said you can slap a new diff in for the belt drive, let me say this. To do so is in the $30-ish range. That's what you'd also pay for a pede tranny. And after running the belt drive for a while, I can tell you I like the pede tranny alot more. Under extreme conditions, its hard to keep the belt from popping off the pulleys. So in my mind, the cost to go to a pede tranny is well worth it. But the pede tranny is not a drop in unit, but if you are going to run a custom chassis or bruiser chassis, you can rig something up to get the tranny to fit.

Here's a no brainer, but locking the diffs is a good thing. If its going to be a crawler only, lock them with your preferred method right away when building it. Either JB Weld, Quicksteel (I prefer this since it sets up in 15 minutes and fully cures in an hour), or glue from a hot glue gun,. Its not hard to get the axle cases apart, but it does take a bit of time, which I'd rather be driving then wrenching. Pics of the locking process coming.

Here's why you don't run Silly putty. This picture was taken after only two driving sessions:
http://img91.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img91...img06286og.jpg
Now the diff is nice and cleaned up, residue is all removed and I have tools and Quicksteel ready to go:
http://img91.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img91...img06295zn.jpg
Here a ring of quicksteel is placed around one of the main gears, ready to accept the spider gears. Make sure you don't place any near the hole in the center of the gear, this can cause problems when you insert the drive axles:
http://img91.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img91...img06305lm.jpg
The diff is now reassembled. Make sure that both drive axles fit in all the way.
http://img91.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img91...img06315ij.jpg
Make sure that the entire assembly drive axles/diff fit into the axle casing and that it can rotate without binding. If the drive axles do not fit together all the way make sure that nothing got into the tiny female end of one of the drive axles. Even a small amount inside there can mean that the drive axle with the male pin will not go in all the way. If you did get something in there, quickly take a drill bit and spin it in the hole and clear out any material in there:
http://img137.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img1...img06323zl.jpg

Shocks, the TLT shocks are kind of junk. They work alright with the cantilever setup, but for whatever reason when you mount them where they need to flex a little, the motion is inconsistent, sometimes jerky. Plus, there are only like two springs available, and the second one is at a home depot, and I haven't yet found it. Upgrade to a maxx size shock. There are tons of them out there, and tons of spring rates. You can go overkill and mount a shock that is longer than 4" but have fun trying to make everything work without rubbing. It also might kill the scale look. I've found most TLT's do well with 4" shocks, but maybe savage shocks and pushing the envelope is your thing, don't let me squash your creativity.

One thing I did was I took off all the traxxas ball ends (the plastic pieces) and attached the stock tamiya ones in their place, then I placed the traxxas metal balls into the cups. They are alot free'er in their rotation, I think it adds a bit of slop, but for how smooth the truck's suspension is, I'll take the slop.

Motors, or first off, ESC's. Get reverse. I don't care what you say, you will need reverse at one point in time or another. Sometimes you'll just approach something wrongly and you'll have to back out, or if you have 2WS (two wheel steering) you just can't turn that tightly, so you'll probably have to reverse atleast once to get through a tight turn. I drove without reverse for a while, and its no fun having to pick up your truck everytime you can't get through an obstacle going forward when you could've simply reversed and changed the line slightly to get past it. So get a reversing ESC. Now, motors. I am using a Great Planes T600 ferrite motor. Plenty of torque and it stays cool. Its also a 550 size can, so its a bit longer than 540 motors (think of an emaxx motor). Another popular motor is the integy lathe motor. This is a 540 size motor and has insane amounts of torque and low RPM's. If you need to gear even lower, you can get a GD600 (look it up on tower). The is a gear reduction, but it also changes the direction of rotation, so you'll need to flip the tranny around. There is also some shaft or pinion modification necessary to run these. I say, run the truck as is and then get a GD600 if you find your truck doesn't have the torque it needs.

And speaking of gearing. Get the largest spur you can and the smallest pinion you can. This creates a low, torquey gearing. If you need more wheelspin, get a larger pinon, but only by about 2 teeth, experiment.

How about articulation? Articulation is how much flex is in the suspension. It used to be the top stuff, people would articulate an axle so that one was upside down and the other was planted. Not a good idea. If your suspension flexes too much, you can twist your truck up in a rock hole and never drive it out of there. About 60-75* of max articulation is all that is necessary. Link mounted shocks give tons of flex, but remember, they also make the shocks feel softer because the moment arm is longer and therefore more torque is exerted on the shock (thats a basic idea of levers and work).

Instead of trying to get tons of flex, try to get your CG (center of gravity) down low. This helps prevent roll overs and keeps your truck stable. To do this, figure out ways to keep the motor and battery down low. These two components are the heaviest pieces in your chassis, and its up to you to be creative and deal with them.

Here's a question I've seen before, "what kind of body is a good crawler body?"

And here's my answer: ANY BODY! Now, granted a mitsubishi eclipse just doesn't look right with huge monster tires under it, but just get a body you think will look good or that you like. Make sure your wheelbase is the same as the body's wheelbase (wheelbase is a measure from the center of one axle to the center of the other). Once you get the body, you will probably have to do some height adjustment and some fender trimming so your tires don't rub. Some people don't like to trim lines on bodies that aren't there, personally I think its just another way to make your truck unique and your own.

Now one last tip that comes from the Dirkmeister, BB's. Some people put weights in the tires of their crawlers, there is a range of options, and BB's are one of them. By placing a weight of BB's in a set of tires (front or rear) you can create stability and traction. Because the weight is not on the chassis, its not going to make the truck roll any quicker than before. Because there is more weight on the tires though, they press into the ground more and you get more traction. This also helps with climbing, and keeping your truck planted to the ground. I suggest you do equal amounts of weight in the fronts and an equal set of weight in the rears, but the front doesn't have to be the same as the rear, but you don't really want a really heavy left tire and light right tire, it doesn't make sense. Play around with different weights in there until you get your truck hooked on the rocks. Now, it might be hard to get the BB's in once you get them glued to your wheels, so either slit a hole in the tire and place the BB's in there, then reseal it with some IC-2000 super glue (the black rubberized super glue, they should have a generic version at your LHS), or figure some other way to open a hole between the tire/wheel to slip them in and out. Remember, the weights in the tires should be able to move around freely, so that they always roll to the bottom of the tires. Its also added weight on the driveline, so available power may go down.

Crawling is an art of balance. You have to figure out what to maximize and what to minimize and create a truck that while not perfect, has a nice balance to it so that you can take on many varied obstacles.

I hope this helps you with your TLT crawling endeavors.

Last edited by Plays_with_Toys; 05-06-2007 at 11:55 AM.
Plays_with_Toys is offline   Reply With Quote
 



LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-tlt-crawlers/3996-faq-tlt-1-tlt-crawler-%2A%2A%2Anewbies-read-%2A%2A%2A.html
Posted By For Type Date
Rock crawling? This thread Refback 02-24-2013 11:22 PM
ORCRC.COM This thread Refback 10-04-2011 07:13 PM

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com