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Thread: 1stGen Joins the Party (build thread)

 
 
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Old 08-03-2020, 06:33 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hampton
Posts: 27
Default 1stGen Joins the Party (build thread)

I've been racing RC competitive since the 90's, but never really had any interest in crawlers until a few months ago.

Got a Capra to get the feet wet with the wife and kids, and Dad got an SCX10.3 kit to build up.

Pretty run of the mill build thanks to a decent manual, the "before you bulid" thread here, and my experience with race kits through the ages.


Axles were straightforward, nice and snug on the fit and finish.


Shocks weren't the best I've every built, but far from the worst. Learned with the Capra, a healthy dose of green slime makes everything smoother and less leaky.


Here's where I start to deviate from previous builds. From the first time I saw this SCX transmission, I thought it looked awesome, but the real deal is aluminum, not black. So I stacked up the transmission housing before building, and hit it with a light coat of aluminum colored paint. I also figured any wear from handling or light spots in coverage would pre-weather it to look like a used (and dirty in the crevices) real-deal.


For power, I'm un-retiring a 17.5 race motor from about 8 years ago, with an 11T pinion.


Links went really quick with an extra set of hands. My dad, who's never been into RC much, was really digging the realism, so he helped out with some allen drivers to hold the links parallel, and I was able to turn the links and tighten the turnbuckles evenly and quickly. Building the 10 links might have actually gone faster than the 6 turnbuckles on my second XRay XB2C build I finished on Saturday, with the extra set of hands.


Driveshafts, again, pretty standard fare. Kind of reminded me of my days racing Traxxas Revo's in the early days of the Truggy class, with fewer e-clips.


Here's where things started getting annoying compared to a race kit. The link-topus gets a mind of it's own trying to get it all connected sometimes.


I heeded the advice to pre-thread the shock towers, but I used a 3mm Cap Screw from my stash of hardware. Stronger head, no risk to the kit hardware. Worked well.


Conquered the link-topus. Somehow in all my reading and video watching, I missed any mention of the chassis rails being steel/metal. Makes sense, but was a minor surprise to me.


Electronics population is going to get pretty tight with my list. SR515, 2x KST X12-508 Servos, Protek 370TBL Steering Servo, Tekin RX4, and Castle BEC 2.0, being fed by a Protek 3s 4500mAh Shorty.


2-speed servo required some creative mounting. The front upper link mount keys into the chassis rail, and the lower skid, so I ended up shaving the part, dropping down to just 1 screw, and hoping for the best long-term Just wasn't any other way to get the servo lead to clear the space. I'm sure the Spektrum "proper" servo fits just fine, but again


Everything mounted, ready to solder things in. The 2 speed servo took a couple 2mm spacers under the mounting ears as well, but all secure now. I had picked up some XRay micro servo savers to make my linkages. BUT, the servo savers are micro in size, but meant for regular size servo splines. I attempted to bed the servo adapters with some epoxy to make them work, but apparently my epoxy is old, and it never set hard enough to work properly. I'm sure I'll use the servo savers for something else some other time, but on spring tension and self-recentering ability, they would have been absolutely perfect if the spline sizes matched up to micro servos.


Everything wired and happy. The Castle BEC 2.0 is feeding only the steering servo. The Tekin BEC is set to 7.4V and is feeding the receiver and micro servos. I don't have the remote drag brake adjustment for the RX4 connected right now, I have the fan installed instead. I *think* I can get the lead connected and still get the receiver box cover back on if the need arises.

The Carbon Fiber links are some defunct front-end torsion links for a 1/12 scale BMI Copperhead, they seemed to have a good offset for the 2-speed and dig connections to the KST servo horns (since my servo savers didn't work out). They also don't have a lot of twist or play, so I was able to get a good 3 position setup for the dig, and the 2 speed functions smoothly as well.

That's as far as I've gotten so far. I'm completely undecided on paint scheme, colors, interior, any of it. Plenty of options, but the final result will likely be as much a surprise for you all as it will be for me.

The engine cover will also get detail painted, but it will be a lot easier to remove than the transmission would have been, which is why the transmission got sprayed from the very beginning.
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